hey guys
I just got into the Hvac field, starting to learn a lot everyday, just starting to do some air conditioning installs and wondering how many of you guys do Pittsburgh Seams for Transitions when installing ac coils ? any tips for transition work ?
Are you talking about building a new transition for a/c coils when the existing transition isn't sized correctly? They should really be made ahead of time by a tin shop if the current transition is no good for the coil to be put in.
That requires a bender of some sort to actually attempt to make a poor man's pittsburg seam without actually having a pittsburg machine to do it. I don't typically mess with the existing seams since they're helping with the strength of the plenum and aren't usually in my way. I use S cleets around doors I make. Sometimes I make drive seams for easier door removal servicing. In other situations, (depending on the plenum), I'll carefully open the existing pittsburg seam, cut it across and pry open a section to get my coil and tray inside and close it back up with only 2 cleets top and bottom. That way I keep the existing tin work that was there and it gives a clean look while taking minimal time when the dimensions are correct. I often find the tray for coils to be a little over 16" wide when our plenums are exactly 16" wide... This makes re-closing the pittsburg seam impossible at the tray location.
I'm always looking for the best and easiest way for a clean look, air leak free, easier servicing, and time friendly. It almost always requires some kind of on the spot creativity... Removing existing installs sometimes gives me good ideas I've never thought of.
Thanks for your reply, and yea It can be a pain closing it back up. Where I work they have been putting monster size coils and been pri much doing ALOT of sheet metal work to make it fit. the worst part is doing tin work in crawl space! and do you think midwest snips are the best to use or is their better brands ?
Wiss for straight reds
Midwest for the angle reds and greens
Everyone had their own way of doing sheet metal. The goal is to be able not to have to use tape.
I'm not a fan of taping but the Building Code requires taping on certain ducts in certain areas regardless of how tight and leak free the joints are.
Yes you are correct