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I live in a 3rd floor condo facing the West, with no blocking buildings. Had a new (replacement) PTAC professionally installed this summer. Last evening, while the highest wind was said to be 25 mph for a few hours, when there was a gust, I heard a short but annoying loud noise, deeper than a whistle, almost a hum. Such wind happens occasionally so it is hard to replicate. Thoughts, please, and Thanks

I was attempting to install a smart thermostat that came with a c wire adapter.  I thought I needed the adapter so I unhooked the wires at my control panel then noticed that there was a blue wire hooked up to to C wire spot.  Started putting wires back in and saw a loose black wire that I did not unhook.  The black wire at the thermostat was hooked up to a spot labeled W2.  I'm assuming it came unhooked when I was pulling the other wires out.  My only places to put it are marked AL1, AL2 or A.  This is a geothermal system with emergency heat strips.  Here is the wiring diagram.

The mechanical damper at the top left is working but the right motor runs freely but doesn't run when the door is open.

I will try to record it with close door.

My air handler is brand new and it's been very difficult to buy it here near Montreal. They are selling it only to commercial companies.


I wanted this particular brand because I had a no more available part on my old Venmar and the service is so bad. They will never have any money from me.


So that's why I'm trying to solve this problem by myself as much as possible.


Thanks a lot for your help.

Does the damper open?  With the power off does the fan wheel spin freely, or does it seem seized?

You may have a bad motor.

https://gasexperts.ca/product/lifebreath-replacement-fan-motor-23-249r/

Hi there!
I have  this Lifebreath RNC6-ES air handler and the right motor (for inside air doesn't seem to start.
Is it normal? Is there a way to troubleshoot it?

Thanks in advance.

Download Director's Order FS-271-24 - Here

I am a chiller tech and have never done duct design or install. I am in the process of building a house and have a rough layout of the duct design. Can someone tell me what I need to do differently? This is just a rough draft. I will be placing the supply registers near the heat sources. It's also a 4 ton heat pump in the attic of a 2000sqft house in Louisiana.

What is the air handler model number?

I've been reading the great responses to prior threads about interlocking a HRV with the furnace blower and tying in with an Ecobee. Haven't found exactly our scenario in previous threads, so I'm hoping for advice.

We have a new Mitsubishi Zuba central heat pump wired to a PAR-40MAAU thermostat. We also have a Vanee 190H HRV that came with the house, but which we haven't actually used in >10y living here. It's been cleaned, and I just bought a bronze controller which I installed today to be able to control it without having to go into the crawl space to turn on/change speeds on the HRV. It is set up to exhaust air from a return trunk and to put fresh air into the main supply trunk. The manual says that it doesn't require the air handler to be running with this style of install, but I imagine it will work more efficiently if it does.

Our heat pump installer had initially said that we should be able to interlock the air handler to run when the HRV is on, but I'm not sure that's the case. It looks like the air handler is only set up to turn off the HRV if it's in defrost mode rather than being turned on itself by the interlock relay when the HRV is running. If they were to try to link the two, I think I understand that we'd be stuck choosing either low or high fan speed for the HRV?

Is anyone familiar with this kind of setup? Would it possibly work, or should I just resign myself to the air handler running as needed and the HRV doing its own thing independently?


 

I think that orange label can is still the grey glue meant for PVC (65°C). We usually use this with furnace venting.

They may have changed their packaging although using an orange label is kind of confusing.

The orange glue is meant for CPVC (90°).  We usually use this with boiler venting.

I would just make sure the can says PVC or CPVC, depending on what you are installing.

Don't forget to use the clear or purple primer when working in 0°C weather.