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Are you able to post a picture of the gas control that displays the 3 flash error code?  And a picture of the switch you replaced would help.  Have you verified there is no ice built up on the outdoor vent termination?

I suspect this may be a pressure switch issue.  It's possible during colder weather there's more condensation building up in the venting.  If the venting isn't sloped properly this water could be a restriction causing the pressure switch to stay open.

I have a Rheem Classic heater model: PRO G50S 36N CN67 PV.

It has a sensor that is supposed to monitor exost. After buying a house heater, it went into error mode with 3 blinking lights, so I replaced the sensor. It helped, but every winter in cold weather, usually -10 or below, the same 3 blink would come up. I snaked the exost pipe from one end to the other with no blockages. If it's getting really costly, the heater goes into error almost every hour. I need to wait before restarting, it will work for an hour or two hours and shut off again. Sometimes it would not even last 30 minutes. In summer, no problem, the heater works like a champ.

Any suggestions on what could be causing it, and especially why cold is a factor?

If sensor was replaced should i look at fan replacemetn etc?

Try to measure 120V across the inducer motor terminals.  It should be constant after a call for heat. 

You may need to replace the control board if that relay is failing.

I would also disconnect W at the furnace, the wire coming from the thermostat.  Jumper R and W, at the furnace, to call for heat and rule out a thermostat problem.

You can wire your inducer motor to constant power and cycle the furnace.  Leave the pressure switch tubing disconnected from the pressure switch and reattach it after you hear the click, otherwise the constantly running inducer motor will cause a pressure switch error for being stuck closed.

If the furnace fires up and runs without stopping it likely means the control board will need to be replaced.

I have an International Comfort Products furnace distributed by Heil. Model #: c9mpd050f12c2.  Serial #: a081568679. The transducer will not turn on consistently. It clicks like it wants to go and moves slightly. The codes blinks 3 times. I've replaced the transducer, pressure switch, and the door switch. With resetting, it will eventually run. Sometimes it runs for about 5 seconds then stops. Please help.

Nothing wrong with wanting to fix simple things on your own, except that this leak sounds like it should be looked at by a tech.

Hello I'm hoping someone can give me some advice. I like to learn how to fix simple things on my own and I feel this problem is easily solved but I don't know enough to start poking around other than a preliminary look. My furnace is leaking from the condenser. I have a water line hooked up to the pipe coming out of the water heater that goes to the furnace, into an area near the condenser. The line hooks up to a small sort of circuit box with wires. Inside of the area where it's leaking is some sort of plastic mesh screen or filter. Below is a soft plastic hose that drains into the floor.

Yes, in my attached picture the red and block wires would connect to the Ecobee ACC terminals.

The 3 wires on the right are for the interlock, but because you're using the PEK extender kit I would just leave them connected.

I couldn't determine how to attach photos, but I've included a link here:

https://share.icloud.com/photos/051H6pMgBiEMFjk33TFgb_lRA

The current controller uses a three wire setup and has a red, green, and blue wire attached.

I have an Ecobee premium and I'm looking to connect our HRV to it. 

I've seen similar posts and I understand the Ecobee can only control one speed (I will likely wire it to HI). 

I'll attached photos of the thermostat wiring, HRV wiring, and furnace wiring. 

I'm hoping someone can help provide direction. My HRV has 6 wires which is where I'm confused. I'm thinking I can wire to ON, RED (with a jumper), then to HI? I'm not sure what to do with the additional cables. 

Thank you! 

Either as long as they have CAN/ULC-S642 certification.

QuoteClause 6.9.6
When a jointing sealant is used, it shall be certified to CAN/ULC-S642 and shall be applied to the male threads of a metal pipe. Tape shall be stretched and applied in a clockwise direction, with a 50% overlap leaving the first two starter threads bare.