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How / where should this be capped off when going back to electric (there is a shutoff )
(What icon do I use to post a pic ?)

Quote from: Byron on August 20, 2025, 09:24:48 PMWe've just had a few guys do their G3 practical it was mostly knowing what parts of a furnace are called and what their purpose is, as well as knowing your scope of work from O.Reg 212/01 https://www.ontario.ca/laws/regulation/010212

wow, i think its different for everyone aye? some people have to thread pipe, cut, ream, and fix a faulty furnace i believe? but i assume if its for g3 then it shouldn't be too crazy, especially as someone who is challenging the exam, it should be pretty simple? can u please elaborate about the questions?

Hey! i'm starting to prepare for my theory g3 and practical g3 after that, i was wondering if anyone has any idea of what practical questions they are asking nowadays, i'm challenging the g3 by self study, never worked in hvac industry before, i learnt how to thread pipe and cut pipe from youtube, but wondering if there's more resources for practical exam.

Hello,

I am Kishan Patel. I am looking to register with an HVAC program. I am new to this field of study. I have done Business management and planning to take HVAC study to pursue my career as 313A licence holder. I am willing to get help or guidance that where can i start this processes . Please your guidance will be truly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Gas furnace in heat mode and a/c turned off at breaker. The discharge line and txv freeze up. What's causing this?

Hello,
We have a hydronic heating system consisting of a Smith boiler that was installed in 2003 and a conversion burner for natural gas which is about 17 years ago (it used to burn heating oil). It was connected to 2.5 inch old cast iron heating pipes running to old stand up cast iron radiators. In early November we had a contractor replace all the cast iron with PEX (the red kind used for domestic hot water, which may be a whole different issue) connected to modern baseboard fin type heaters in the entire house. In addition, he installed a "fan in a can" to increase oxygen getting to the burner. We also insulated must of the exterior walls in the house.

According to our latest gas bill we used 2.3 times as much natural gas during this year's December billing cycle compared with last years. I would expect this system to be more efficient than the previous one. Could something in the new system be causing more natural gas to be burned?

A few additional things that may have come into play:

    The expansion tank failed during this billing cycle and the system was dumping water until we had it replaced last week. It was dumping water for 2 to 3 weeks during the billing cycle.
    The installer put antifreeze into the system when he installed it which it didn't have before.
    Prior to November, the old system consisted of 4 rooms with stand up radiators and 3 rooms with 2 year old modern fin type baseboards so it was mixed. I believe the contractor may have installed high output radiators in those 4 rooms.
    Finally, although we insulated most of the walls, the one that didn't get insulated is the room with the thermostat.

I thought I'd run this by the forum before I approach the contractor and start asking questions.

Thank you for your time
-Greg
 

Thank you Porcupinepuffer,

My original blower motor, 5SME39SL0121 had a stator magnet come unglued (which I have since repaitred). When the motor failed, I sourced another motor of the same part number, but it had that different controller number.

The two controllers are different inside and out but have the same external connection plugs.

The controllers dont seem to have a programmable component as they just seem to consist of large capacitors and rectifiers.

I would share images here but I dont seem to have the option at this time.

I would go on all the job search websites (indeed, workopolis, jobbank,...) and search hvac for your area. Employers will say they are looking for certain requirements, but they are not getting responses that meet those requirements. Employers today are realizing they need to train new hires, so go crazy.

Sounds like it's an ECM. If the replacement one has different part numbers it may not work properly. The actual controller has to be programmed to work with that particular furnace. The speeds may not be correct, or it may not work at all. Have you tried opening your old controller to see if an obvious metal oxide varistor has blown in the circuitry? If so, you can take it to an electronics repair shop and have them replace that part to save money.

Starting January 1, 2026, Ontario is updating the Fire Code to require carbon monoxide (CO) alarms on every storey of a home, including basements, if there is a fuel-burning appliance, fireplace, or attached garage.  Most existing detectors should be replaced every 10 years as well.

https://www.ontario.ca/page/carbon-monoxide-safety?fbclid=IwZnRzaAO2Eq1leHRuA2FlbQIxMQBzcnRjBmFwcF9pZAo2NjI4NTY4Mzc5AAEeQ2ZUIxIncDtSUewTM0w7552EBKuKbs8FgwdQTxl3iKe-CXmruclqYOe8tHY_aem_jypDnJ4Ku3OZknQkYl8X8A