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I took the motor out and powered directly and it is indeed seized.  I also verified with a voltmeter that there is power from the control board.  I did reach out to Eden Energy Equipment and they told me I can no longer buy that part so now I'm trying to see how I can jury-rig it with an off-the-shelf motor.  The SYNCHRON motor that was in it has no markings whatsoever, I'm thinking it was a CW rotation at 4 or so rpm.  Power to open, spring to close, the dampers.  Any guidance you can give me would be appreciated.  PS: the 3.1.1 quote is not relevant as my unit is older than the type with the LEDS.

That snorkel will need to be insulated, which makes this whole thing even more uglier.

Nobody makes this monster for funsies. I suspect the installer did not have a great deal of choice? 

1.5 ton modulating or with stages might work OK but it's probably oversized for that space.  A 1 ton unit would probably be a better fit.

Hey group. Looking for recommendations on ductless unit installation.
I got a living room 20x35 feet, 9ft ceiling. One window. South side.
Hamilton, ON area.
Would 1.5 ton be enough?
Appreciate your help!

Does the damper motor feel warm to touch?  If it's getting power and not moving it's likely seized.

Quote3.1.1 BOOT SEQUENCE
The unit boot sequence is similar to a personnal computer boot sequence. Each time the unit is plugged after being unplugged, or after a power failure, the unit will perform a 30-second booting sequence before starting to operate. During the booting sequence, the integrated control LED will light GREEN or AMBER for 5 seconds, and then will shut off for 2 seconds. After that, the LED will light RED for the rest of the booting sequence. During this RED light phase, the unit is checking and resetting the motorized damper position.
Once the motorized damper position completely set, the RED light turns off and the booting sequence is done.
NOTE: No command will be taken until the unit is fully booted.

Hi Folks,

I have an old VanEE 90 HRV.   The unit does not have LEDs on the front, just a High/Low/Auto switch so it is a 20+ year old model.   In the past I remember seeing the damper cycle when I watch it upon power up (with the door switched button held closed).   Now it seems to be open all the time so I'm concerned the defrost cycle has not been working over the winter. Am I remembering correctly? Should normally be closed when powered down?

Thanks,
Neal

Quote from: hrv_broken on March 13, 2025, 09:12:27 AMBut either of them were stuck.

Correction: Neither* of them was* stuck.

aka, I think both motors are free to rotate. I didn't have a way to measure the current (amperage) or the power consumption.

My vanEE HRV air exchanger isn't working. The model number is vanEE 43808. Using multimeter, when wires (J1 terminal pin 1 and pin 6) go to the motor measured 110vac, the motor was not running. I also unplugged the power, and manually rotated the fan motor. The upper one is more easy to rotate. But either of them were stuck.

I suspect the motor is malfunctioning. The motor model is 5KCP84DFK143P. I plan to replace it. The motor is around $350. Is it worse replacing? Or should I get a brand new HRV system?

I also see many people replace the capacitor together with this motor. Should I get a new capacitor too? I'm aware my model is under recall. vanEE (Venmar) is sending a safety upgrade device to me. I will install that soon.

[Didn't find a way to insert images, here is a link to some photos]
https://imgur.com/RQoRmKo

First time posting here, thank you very much.

I noticed my 155Max controls all out (no display or leds on) I've had a lot of electrical storms roll through and I fear the 155's controller card has taken the hit. There is little troubleshooting I can find on the net. So reaching out to the community to seek help.
Symptoms:

Main and secondary controllers not powered.
Unplug unit and repower does not cycle fan through self-test
Only partly drives damper close, will not cycle open and close

Controller board has GEN0 0412-336-0xx01C xx= possible 35 Partly obscured by coating material.

Model is 155Max SN NECA 06121330123

Voltage measured at terminal Block Part # 99-101 on R, Y, G all ~27v

155Max was fully functional until recently.

Any guidance with troubleshooting steps would be appreciated before I start replacing parts.

Effective May 1, 2025 some fees increase by 3.8%. 

See the attached TSSA Fee Schedules for 2025.