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I have a Fantech ATMO 200E ERV and the latest Ecobee Premium with Voice. I'm trying to determine the best way to wire the ERV so my Ecobee can control it. My setup includes three zones, each with its own Ecobee (one on each level). Currently, I have a humidifier wired to each accessory terminal.

After researching online, it seems I could connect both the ERV and humidifier using PEK+ based on this reference:
https://www.hvactechgroup.com/hvacforum/index.php?topic=4100.msg13574#msg13574


However, when looking at the wiring diagram for the Fantech ATMO 200E, I'm confused about which output to use to send the signal to the Ecobee. Could anyone clarify this for me or point me in the right direction? I do not see W R G Y outputs on the board.



Thanks in advance for your help!

Is is powered constantly so that when the humidistat turns on the humidifier will run?  Occasionally they are wired with the heating circuit and only run when the furnace is heating, and sometimes the humidifier is not able to run long enough in this scenario.  Usually the automatic models require constant power.  Is the furnace fan running anytime the humidifier is on?

Do you have an air exchanger running in the house?  If the outdoor humidity is only 30% in Chicago it could decrease the indoor humidity if it's left running too long. 

There may be a duct that brings in fresh air to the gas appliances or it may be piped directly into the return air duct.  I have seen older homes upgrade their equipment to direct vent and no longer require the outdoor air supply, but no one removed it, so it continues to bring in outdoor air. 

Or if you have a wood burning fireplace, ensure the flue damper is closed, when not in use.

That model of humidifier should satisfy a 2500sq ft home.  Some people will use a copper water line and a hot water supply, instead of cold water, to increase the humidity output of the humidifier.

I have a three houses in COLD northern Illinois with whole house humidifiers.  I maintain them myself and no problem in two of them.  But, just moved into 2500 sf home and first heating season. 
It has a York diamond 90 furnace and aprilaire 700 auto humidifier.  I replaced a faulty transformer and the humidistat series 56 last week.  Runs as expected and water pad is wet and water runs down into tube steadily now.  But, humidity never goes above 26% even when I use manual mode on humidistat and set it to max (7) on controller which should be 45% RH. Measured at Honeywell Wi-Fi thermostat and separate hygrometer that are only 2% different.  I can't find any leaks in ductwork in attic and no condensation on windows and it's 5 - 10 degrees F right now. any advice appreciated.

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Answers to ultimate questions...


Yes this an immediate safety concern

Never have I seen someone use a corrugated chimney liner as a vent connector

Any gas technician who values their license would immediately red tag this installation. 

with respect to the floor getting hot, a single wall vent connector has a minimum clearance to combustibles of 6".  I'm surprised the insulation which covers the vent connector hasn't caught fire. 

That furnace has seen its day likely and needs to be replaced with a new model.  If it did pass an inspection, venting for Cat 3 would need to be Z vent. 

Has anyone ever seen what appears to be chimney liner used for venting an Olsen Cat III furnace?

This unit is installed in the house my gf rents.  The only date on the plate is 1991.  The venting is pressed against the floor boards and creates a serious hot spot above.

What I see:
1) Venting (even with what looks like home made insulation wrap) is too close to both floor joists and floor boards.
2) Venting is what appears to be chimney liner attached with 3 screws at the furnace output.  With this being Cat 3 (positive pressure) shouldn't it be sealed?
3) Vent wrapping - is this really manufacturer recommended insulation?
4) The furnace vents directly outside and into the driveway - gf slipped on ice and almost grabbed it (140 degrees hot)
5) Inducer fan is missing (or has loose) screws.
We have some serious concerns here with the flooring above getting very hot.  I measured the bottom of the floorboards at 70 degrees C. 

The landlord came and took pictures and says he consulted with expert professionals and they "overwhelmingly agree" there is no safety concern as it was installed like that and there hasn't been an issue.

This unit is so old, there is no information available online and Olsen is no longer in business.

My ultimate questions are:
Does this constitute an immediate safety concern?
Has anyone seen an install like this?
Can all of this be "grandfathered"?

Thanks for the OBC and thanks for clarifying.

This post may help,

https://www.hvactechgroup.com/hvacforum/index.php?topic=2583.0

The Ontario Building Code just switched to the 2024 Edition, so all the Article numbers changed.  I attached the 2024 OBC for your reference.

According to Article 9.33.6.11(3) warm-air outlets can be installed in the ceiling.

Quote9.33.6.11 - Warm-Air Supply Outlets
(3) Where the heating system is also designed to provide ventilation air, ceiling outlets or outlets located high on interior walls are permitted to be installed, provided the outlets are designed for this purpose and are installed with diffusers.

The inspector will not be able to provide any Code that requires the return air to be installed at the floor level, using either the OBC or SMACNA.

Article 9.33.6.12(2) only requires 1 return air per floor, so if your basement already has 1 return air, then just tell the inspector you are eliminating the new return air, and that argument is over.

Quote9.33.6.12 - Return-Air System
(2) Except for floor levels which are less than 900 mm above or below an adjacent floor level which is provided with a return-air inlet, at least one return-air inlet shall be provided in each floor level in a dwelling unit.

I will say your basement will be more comfortable if you put the return at the floor level.  It's very easy to line the joists in the mechanical room and pop a return air into the finished area.

You can read this post to find all the return air codes found in the OBC.  You just have to search the new 2024 OBC to find the new Article
numbers.  See the attached Return Air Codes.pdf at the bottom of this post.

https://www.hvactechgroup.com/hvacforum/index.php?topic=1414.msg3868#msg3868

Just wondering if anyone has heard of a requirement in Ontario Building Code (or elsewhere) to move supply and return air vents near the floor (from the ceiling) when finishing a basement.  Building inspector is insistent that we move ceiling return and supply from ceiling to floor but has yet to provide me with Code reference.    I know there is a whole debate on where the best place for these is but I just want to know what, if anything the code says.  I've already made my decision where I want them, just want to know the law. 

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

Any GUT-1 exam questions or another forum here I'm missing?