www.hvactechgroup.com - forums

You just connect one wire to the R terminal and slide the jumper up as shown in the attached diagram.

I meant R and Rc

I am replacing an aprilaire 8444 with a Honeywell RTH20B.  The Aprilaire had a small blue jumper wire from A to Ab. The Red wire went into red and the jumper was also in red and jumped to Rb.


The Honeywell has slots for A and Ab but the slots will only take one wire.  Do I need to add a jumper to Ab?  If so, how do I do it?  Can I use a two wire pig tail from the red into the Ab?  Please advise. 

The fact you measured 24V at the gas valve while the ignitor was energized would seem to indicate a bad gas valve.

I would test the pressure switch to make sure it's not opening intermittently.

Well my HVAC repair story goes like this; I will start from the end:


If the issue was intermittent prior, but now is simply all the time.   What should I be looking at and what am I going to screw up.  If I have to get another HVAC tech in I will have the urge to take the first guy to small claims because his wife is a total piece of work and I don't want that hassle.  I promise I am not touching gas, I like my house in one piece and I am good with electronic repair and some mechanics but that is all.

13) The install manual says: Locate and correct gas
interruption.
• Check front cover pressure switch operation (hose, wiring, contact operation) Correct if necessary.
• Replace or realign igniter.
• Check flame sense signal. Sand sensor if coated and/or oxidized. <I ran some (extra?) fine wool over it.
• Check flue piping for blockage, proper length, elbows, and termination. <looked good.
• Verify proper induced draft blower performance. < the tech did strip some wires to tests this ?!)



12) So, the unit goes/went so far as sending 24V to the gas valve BUT there is no smell of gas at all and no ignition (rod gets bright yellow etc).


11) Yes, I likely have to take them to small claims court but need to fix the furnace before I do that; if I do it no cost or an inexpensive part I don't have to worry about that.  They can live with the review.

10) The problem turns out to be that the HVAC tech that took my 20" channel locks with them and wouldn't acknowledge I took them or even give me a call about them for 2 days with his wife running interference has bailed either because I embarassed him or because he is whooped by his wife this seems to want to go beyond the scope of handling the office stuff and co-ordination.

9) After I posted a review on google that got my 20" channel locks back.  I didn't say they stole them but I did give a clear and accurate description of events and his wife that answers the phone (woooo weeeee!!!).

 they won't finish the work that I paid for because they are upset with me.  If posted that they stole the tool I might understand but I didn't; I did skewer the HVAC techs wife that answers the phone and how she conducts business (it was bad).


From the start.


1) Intermittently my Goodman GME95 (10yrs) would not fire up.  It would fail after 3 times (one flash)

2)  Did a diagnosis and got as far as the gas valve getting 24V but not opening;  two of the times I gave it a tap over the next week it started up fine but did not go further.

3) Local HVAC Goodman company raised a couple of redflags but I was too tied down on time.  They have at least 20 techs in 8 locations; did the original install and have good google reviews.  Still red flags from the phone attitude and something odd they said too.

4) I was not able to get a quote for a gas valve because they MUST do the diagnosis, that I get but not even a quote on a type of repair for a part they have?

5) Regardless, they came over.  Took my word on what I did and I was able to get a quote.

6) They did a couple of other checks on repair day and replaced the gas valve.

7) The furnace was working at the time; but intermittent and they proceeded. 

8) They unit worked for a couple of days then nadda, nothing not even intermittent.  One flash.

It is tough to first get that foot in the door with a company willing to start someone who is new. You need to show plenty of enthusiasm to want to learn and do the work. Try and avoid any of the small companies or working for a single contractor. They usually have the worst pay, no benefits, no this, no that. But if that's what it takes to get started, then you may need to do that to get the experience others already want you to have.

Hi Admin - is there a resource you can point me to, that describes the pros and cons of controlling HRV thru Ecobee?

This concerns an old (1990s?) Carrier brand HVAC forced air located in basement.
The first time I used heating this Winter (two days ago) it ran for 40 minutes and produced hot air normally, but then shut down abruptly(air stopped, rumbling stopped).
After 1 minute, it started rumbling again, showing that new cycle began.

Since then, every single time that I activate heat on thermostat---
Heating system starts up, rumbles for 5 minutes, and shuts down without emitting any hot air.
Silence for 20-30 minutes.
After this pause, it starts up again, rumbles, emits hot air for 15 minutes before shutting down.

From my research I take it that either exhaust pipe is blocked (unlikely, as it ran for 40 min straight on first day), or that safety switch and/or the flame sensor is misoperating.

Apologies for poor photos: Can anyone guide me?
Thank you in advance.

I've been to places like Total HVAC, Wolseley, and Master, but there was nothing recent on their boards. I've tried applying online too, but didn't hear back.

Thanks - I will ask my technician to try the 3-wire interlock again before we rule that option out. I am open to using Ecobee to control my HRV however, I have heard that there are limitations to what Ecobee can do. Would it be possible to point me to a resource that can describe what I gain vs what I lose if I decide to use Ecobee to control the HRV?